A few things people mentioned that I'll comment on:
- While it's true that a fresh coat of paint may be covering up problems, most seller's agents will have almost forced the owner to have it painted so it looks better (and, theoretically sells better). I think a good inspector can notice things that a paint job might cover up.
- It's not always best to put down the minimum amount, as your down payment can impact your interest rates, and if you have the ability to get to the magic 20% down, you won't have to pay mortgage insurance (you also don't have to escrow taxes, but unless you are really good at putting money aside, just escrow). Of course, you also shouldn't put down more than you can really afford.
I don't know what the housing situation is like where you are, but a few suggestions from my experience:
1. Homeowner's Associations are a pain in the ass and should be considered a negative. I'm talking here about the kind that collects fees and binds you into covenants that control what you can do with your own home. I'm sure there are good ones, but they often attract nosy, controlling people who will claim to be protecting property values, but are really just making sure everyone's house looks the way they think it ought to.
2. Consider location vs. size, since you can often afford only one or the other. I've found I prefer location (particularly living closer to where I work, which is also closer in to the city in my case). Our first house was over 2000 sq. ft., the second one, under 1000 sq. ft. but half the distance from my work and downtown. That's not the only reason I like it, but it's a considerable part.
3. Look for "good bones" as they say. Is the foundation good? Cracks in ceilings and walls may indicate shifting. Doors and windows should open and close easily, but seal properly. Is there proper support in walls and joists? Is there good insulation in places that it would be hard to add more or better insulation. Remember that things like lighting, fans, bathroom fixtures, etc. can be fairly easily replaced by you with better looking or better functioning items, but walls, windows and other structural components will cost you big bucks to fix.
4. I would hope it's better now, after the housing/mortgage crisis, but don't necessarily trust a bank to help you figure out what you can afford. Our last house purchase, we went to our bank and asked what we could afford before we went shopping, and they kept asking how much we wanted to spend. In my mind, it makes sense to know what you can really afford so you don't go out and fall in love with a place you'll never be able to get, but the bank operated as if I was shopping for a house in the opposite way.
Finally, with interest rates as low as they are, consider something less than a 30 year mortgage. 20 or 15 year mortgages will have lower interest rates, often to the point that you're monthly payment won't be significantly larger (maybe 20-30% more), but your overall cost over the life of the loan will be significantly less.
Here's a rough example. I've assumed a $200K house with a down payment of $25K and taken advertised rates.
A 30 year loan with a rate of 4.2% will have a monthly payment of $1,064.11 and a total payout of $383,080.82
A 20 year with a 4.0% rate will have a monthly payment of $1,268.80 and a total payout of $304,511.74
A 15 year with a 3.6% rate will end up at $1,467.99 monthly with a total of $264,238.07
So, for an increase of basically $200 a month, you can save nearly $80K and have the mortgage done in 20 years. If you could afford to do the 15 year (which is admittedly a lot more monthly), you'd end up saving almost $120K.
Of course, you're unlikely to stay in that house for 20 or 30 years, but in the 20 year example you're also building the equity in your home (that is, the part you "really" own compared to how much the bank still owns) faster, so when you do go to sell, you'll get more of your own money back out of that sale.